Look no farther

Malcolm did some research and took me out to a surprise venue for a romantic honeymoon dinner in Bangkok.  When we arrived at the destination, I learned that he'd chose SMITH restaurant on Soi 49, Sukhumvit.

   "I read that their steak tartare is really good so you  might want to try that," Malcolm told me. I was SO game.

The inside of the restaurant matched the metallic outside.  The exterior was a nondescript building of corrugated metal.  The interior had metal seating everywhere, wrought iron details, and a section with meath -hooks hanging from the ceiling.  Funky photo-portraits decorated one of the few walls of exposed brick.  The lights were low to set the atmosphere while the in-house DJ spun old-school R&B; forgotten singles by TLC and All Saints threw us into a nostalgic mood.

Everything on the menu looked delicious and we decided to order accordingly.  Malcolm let me place my order first: I asked for the fresh oysters (3) and the steak tartare (of course!) to start, the pasta special as my main, and a side order of brussel sprouts.

Apparently the server wasn't accustomed to inquisitive Canadian appetites because she took that to be our entire order and left. Malcolm and I caught each other's eye and laughed before beckoning her back to take Malcolm's order of mussels and sea bass.  Turns out she had to return a final time because they'd run out of mussels and we had to fill that (obviously) gaping void in our giant order to sate our appetites.

The food came and we tucked in.  We were not disappointed.  I was pleased to try caviar with my oysters and was delighted when my steak tartare was arranged as a sunrise (or sunset) on my plate.  Malcolm's salad was the best he'd had - "I could eat this everyday!" - and our mains were delicious.  Admittedly, I think I enjoyed Malcolm's sea bass with buttery foam a little more than my tortellini.

As we dined, Malcolm shared another tidbit with me.

   "Apparently the chef and owner of this restaurant is the Iron Chef of Thailand."
   "That's awesome! What else did you read from the reviews."
   "That was it."
   "There were no more?"
   "No; after reading that they served good steak tartare and that it was by Iron Chef Thailand, I knew you'd like it for sure, so I stopped reading."
   "Fair enough."

He knows me so well.  Perhaps the way to my heart is also through my stomach.

We ended our perfect evening by sharing a banana split (the bananas were fired like the tops of crème brulée!) that was delectable and then left for home and a massage - extremely satisfied but not too full.  It was perfect honeymoon dining with my husband (husband!).

What'cha doin'?

Hi.

We're alive.  :)

We made it through a lot and I HAVE been writing about it, but in the good old fashioned way with pen and paper (my pen actually died before we even left Malaysia).  Here's what we've made it through so far:

• we got married (amazing wedding, amazing party, many happy tears)
• we flew to Malaysia
• I averted a pickpocket attempt on Malcolm in the airport (by kicking someone, no less)
• we took the Canadian family around KL to see things and stuff them full of food
• we had another wedding tea ceremony (amazing family, more happy tears)
• we had another wedding reception (oh, the FOOD!)
• we flew to Bangkok
• I got over food poisoning from the airplane food on that first glorious night
• boys went fishing, girls went shopping (though I really had to concentrate to get my poisoned shit together for two days following)
• we ate FOOD
• honeymooned in Krabi - I didn't want to leave
• returned to Bangkok
• I avoided another pickpocket attempt (this time a motorbike purse-snatcher) by having my wits about me...though I wish I'd managed to kick another someone else in this instance
• we got massages
• I caught a cold that I booted after a glorious day of sleep mixed with cable TV
• we bought stuff
• we ate stuff
• we ate more stuff
• we're going to eat more stuff

Of course there are more details, but those will come later. I think I need to go sit by the pool for a bit. :)

It's gettin' hot in hurr

I checked the weather for Thailand - 33°C daily, though it's going to feel like 47°C.

I don't even know why I'm packing clothes.

One night in Bangkok

I have been trying my best to post our adventures in order, but alas, I've fallen so far behind that it's just not going to work. Sorry KL and Penang, but you'll have to wait until I can get back to you. Right now, it's time for Bangkok!

Malcolm and I touched down last night at 7pm local time. After clearing customs and gathering our things, we became the true backpackers we'd prepared to be for this month. Luggage on our backs, adventure on our minds, and excitement in our hearts, we jumped on the train into the city and to our hotel. We passed through city security checks, tapped tokens, inserted others, wandered and rode until we were vomited out into the heart of Sukhumvit at Asok station.

We were greeted with high-rises, sky-scrapers, and bright building signboards. Traffic flew by at break-neck speeds on 6-lane streets where motorbikes, cars, buses, trucks and taxis deftly avoided yet moved along with each other. Seasoned veterans of the city dared to jay-walk across the sea of vehicles, somehow deciphering the traffic lights (of which there were many of in each direction) and detecting just the right sized gaps in the flow of cars in order for them to casually stroll across to the other side as though they hadn't just taken a gamble with life. We left the gambling to the residents and instead tested our patience at the crosswalk lights which turned out to be broken anyway.

Malcolm leading the way, we wove our way down the sidewalks, finding ourselves avoiding not only other pedestrians, but sidewalk bars (complete with bar stools for patrons to rest upon), hawker-stalls, stray cats. Knowing we had to make a right turn sooner or later, Malcolm picked sooner when we came upon an arrow shaped sign directing us to do so. The sight to greet us was almost overwhelming.

From between the stark sky-scrapers and office buildings erupted a neon cacophony of sights and sounds and smells. Blinking lights, arrows, signs and women welcomed us and invited us to join them for happy hours at places like Deja Vu, Rawhide, Lucky Star, and Insomnia. The advertisements promised live shows and girls, girls, girls, and as proof, the patios, front steps, and streets were teeming with them. Skirts were short and heels were high. The girls cooed and catcalled at Malcolm as he walked a few strides ahead of me.

By the time I caught up to him, the girls left him alone and instead turned their attentions on the plentiful ocean of foreign men milling about the streets, checking out what each establishment had to offer. I wasn't the only girl on vacation on the street - those of us who weren't working were easy to identify by our shorts and sundresses which seemed conservative compared to the status quo. But on that lively street, workers, watchers, and passers-by were all having a good time - the intensity of the lights, the pounding bass of the music and the assault on the senses pretty much guaranteed it.

After finding our hotel (the Tai-Pan hotel) we ditched our baggage and headed out for our favourite travel past time - food. Barreling back down the neon gauntlet of promised pleasure (which turned out to be named Soi Cowboy or Cowboy side street) we made our way to a noodle stall that we'd noticed earlier. Placing our order with the owner/operator, we found ourselves a seat at one of the tables with plastic chairs that lined the sidewalk and waited for our dinner. When it arrived and we had our first taste, it was like a little bit of heaven in that bowl. Noodles, meat and broth with a little bit of greens (pictures to follow soon) and our first meal in Bangkok was simply delectable and at 60 Baht a bowl, cost us $2 CAD for the two of us.

Hand in hand, appetite sated for the meanwhile, we strolled off into the night having been warmly welcomed by Bangkok already.